Paithani Saree: A Traditional Elegance, A Rich Legacy, and Timeless Grace of Maharashtra's Finest Weave

Article of the Month - Mar 2023

This article by Manisha Sarade

(Viewed 1718 times since Mar 2023)

Highlights
- How did Paithani come about to be a symbol of Maratha pride?
- From Yarn to Zari – Steps involved in the process of manufacturing Paithani sarees
- The legend of Goddess Parvati is an important part of the history and mythology of Paithani sarees
- The motifs and its denotations, common motifs found on Paithani sarees and their meanings
- Some tips on how to care for Paithani sarees
- A cult status in popular culture

Paithani is a variety of saree, so-called after the Paithan region in Maharashtra state where they are handwoven. Renowned for its stunning palette and effervescent appeal, one of the unique features of Paithani sarees is their Pallu, which is the end of the saree that is draped over the shoulder. Another unique attribute that sets apart Paithani saree from others is the exceptional weaving technique. From yarn dyeing to weaving, the whole process is accomplished manually by hands.

 

                       Poppy-Red Maharani Double Pallu Paithani Saree From Maharashtra With Bold Peacock Motif

How did Paithani come about to be a symbol of Maratha pride?

The saree has a rich history dating back to 200 BC when the Satavahanas ruled the region. The Satavahanas were known for their patronage of arts and culture, and it is believed that they encouraged the weaving of Paithani sarees during their reign.

Paithani sarees are believed to have been woven in the Paithan region of Maharashtra, India for over 2000 years. However, it was during the reign of the Maratha dynasty in the 17th and 18th centuries that Paithani sarees became a symbol of Maratha pride. During the 17th and 18th centuries, Paithani sarees gained popularity among the wealthy Maratha aristocracy, who wore them for special occasions and weddings. The sarees became a symbol of status and prestige, and the demand for Paithani sarees increased.

Shivaji's patronage of Paithani sarees helped to popularize the saree among the Maratha elite and contributed to its status as a symbol of prestige and status. Over time, Paithani sarees became associated with the Maratha identity and came to represent the prestige, power, and culture of the Maratha dynasty. Today, Paithani sarees are still considered a prized possession and are often worn for special occasions such as weddings and festivals. In recognition of Shivaji's contributions to the promotion of traditional Indian textiles, the Indian government has declared his birth anniversary, known as Shivaji Jayanti, as National Handloom Day. This day is celebrated every year on August 7th and is dedicated to promoting the use of traditional Indian handloom textiles.


                                  Royal-Blue Authentic Paithani Sari with Peacocks Hand-woven on Anchal

From Yarn to Zari – The Making of Paithani Sarees

Here are the steps involved in the process of manufacturing Paithani sarees:

1. Selection of Silk: The first step is to select high-quality silk yarn, which is sourced from Bangalore, Surat, or China.

2. Dyeing the Silk: The silk is then dyed in vibrant colors using natural dyes made from plants and minerals. The most common colors used in Paithani sarees are red, green, blue, and yellow.

3. Preparing the Warp and Weft: The silk yarn is then prepared for weaving by winding it onto large spools called bobbins. The lengthwise threads are called the warp, and the crosswise threads are called the weft.

4. Designing the Motifs: The Paithani saree designs are typically inspired by nature and feature motifs such as peacocks, flowers, and leaves. The motifs are sketched onto paper and then transferred onto graph paper to create a pattern.

5. Setting up the Loom: The warp threads are set up on a loom, which is a machine used for weaving. The weft threads are then woven into the warp to create the design.

6.  Adding Zari: Real gold and silver threads, known as zari, are added to the design to create a rich, luxurious look. The zari is woven into the saree using a special technique called Kadhuwa.

7. Cutting and Finishing: Once the saree is complete, it is cut from the loom and sent for finishing. The saree is washed and starched to give it a crisp look. The edges are then finished with a border made of zari or silk thread.

8. Final Inspection: The Paithani saree is inspected thoroughly for any defects, and any necessary repairs are made.

9. Packaging and Shipping: The saree is then packed carefully and shipped to retailers or customers.

                             Brocaded Paithani Handloom Sari from Maharashtra with Zari-Woven Peacocks on Anchal

The legend of Goddess Parvati and the Paithani

The legend of Goddess Parvati is an important part of the history and mythology of Paithani sarees. According to the legend, Parvati, who was the wife of Lord Shiva, was the first weaver of the Paithani saree. The story goes that Parvati was fascinated by the beauty and elegance of the sarees worn by the women in the court of Lord Indra, the king of gods. She expressed her desire to Lord Shiva to possess such a saree, but he told her that it was not possible to obtain one as it was a creation of the gods.

Determined to have one for herself, Parvati decided to create a saree on her own. She gathered the finest silk yarn, dyed it in vibrant colours, and wove it into an intricate design. She used real gold and silver threads, known as Zari, to add a touch of luxury and elegance to the saree. When Lord Shiva saw the saree that Parvati had created, he was impressed by its beauty and elegance. He was also touched by Parvati's determination and dedication in creating it. He blessed the saree and declared it to be a symbol of love and devotion.

                          Royal-Blue Brocaded Paithani Handloom Sari from Maharashtra with Zari-Woven Pallu

The motifs and its denotations

Paithani sarees are known for their intricate designs and motifs, which are inspired by nature and mythology. Here are some common motifs found on Paithani sarees and their meanings:

1. Peacock: The peacock is a popular motif on Paithani sarees, and is said to represent love, fertility, and beauty. The bird's vibrant colors and elegant feathers make it a popular choice for brides and other special occasions.

2. Lotus: The lotus is a sacred flower in Indian culture and is often associated with purity, divinity, and enlightenment. The lotus motif on a Paithani saree is a symbol of these qualities, and is considered to be an auspicious design.

3. Mango: The mango is a fruit that is popular in India, and is associated with the summer season and abundance. The mango motif on a Paithani saree is a symbol of prosperity, fertility, and good fortune.

4. Pea: The pea is a vegetable that is commonly grown in Maharashtra, where Paithani sarees originated. The pea motif on a Paithani saree is a symbol of the region's agricultural heritage, and is considered to be a unique and distinctive design.

5. Elephant: The elephant is a popular animal in Indian mythology, and is associated with strength, wisdom, and good luck. The elephant motif on a Paithani saree is a symbol of these qualities, and is often used in designs for special occasions such as weddings.

6. Parrot: The parrot is a popular bird in Indian culture, and is associated with love, beauty, and wisdom. The parrot motif on a Paithani saree is a symbol of these qualities, and is often used in designs for brides and other special occasions.

Equally important is to carefully maintain this delicate piece of sheer art. To keep your Paithani sarees looking beautiful and vibrant for a long time, it's important to care for them properly.

 Iridescent (Dhoop Chaanv Shade) Fancy Brocade Pallu Mor Butti Paithani Saree From Maharashtra With Bold Pair Of Peacock On Pallu

Here are some tips on how to care for Paithani sarees

Dry cleaning: It is recommended to dry clean Paithani sarees to maintain their quality and color.

Storing: It is important to store Paithani sarees in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight. Wrap the saree in a muslin cloth or cotton cloth to prevent any moisture or dust accumulation.

Ironing: Always iron Paithani sarees on a low heat setting, and avoid direct contact of the iron with the zari border as it can cause damage.

Handling: Handle the saree gently to avoid any damage to the zari and embroidery work.

Avoid contact with water: It is advisable to avoid wearing Paithani sarees in rainy or humid weather conditions as it can cause damage to the fabric and the zari work.

                                                Amberglow Brocaded Paithani Sari from Maharashtra with Hand-woven Peacocks on Anchal

A cult status in popular culture

Interestingly, Paithani sarees also received a boost in popularity after being featured on the television show "Home Minister" in Maharashtra, India. The show, which premiered in 2004 and ran for several years, showcased traditional Marathi culture and customs, including the Paithani saree. In each episode of the show, the host would organise some games, and the winner, upon winning the game, would be gifted with the prized Paithani. The host would showcase a Paithani saree and explain its unique features, such as the intricate weave, vibrant colors, and traditional motifs. The show also highlighted the history and cultural significance of the saree, which helped to raise awareness and interest among viewers. As a result of the show's popularity, Paithani sarees gained a wider audience and became more popular among women in Maharashtra and other parts of India.

                                                              सोन्याची जर आणि तशीच शान! इथे पाहा कशी दिसते सगळ्यांना हवीशी वाटणारी ११ लाखांची सुरेख पैठणी

Key Takeaways

1. Paithani Sarees have a history dating back to 200 BC.

2. Paithanis are produced only from fine high-quality silk yarn, obtained from Bangalore, Surat, or China.

3. A genuine Paithani saree is handwoven and made using a distinct weaving technique that involves weaving silk and zari threads to create intricate patterns on the fabric.

4. Peacock (Bangadi Mor), Lotus, Mango, Coconut (Narali), Flower (Asawalli), Pea and Elephants are some prominent motifs found in these sarees.

5. The gold wire used in zari work is typically made from 22-karat gold, which is a high-quality, pure form of gold.

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