The Magnificent Journey of Kanjivaram Saree and its Types

Article of the Month - Feb 2023

This article by Manisha Sarade

(Viewed 2515 times since Feb 2023)

Nothing spells extravagance like silk does. Being the second largest producer of silk in the world, producing around 18% of the world's total silk, India has the unique distinction of producing all commercial varieties of silk.

Southern India is the leading silk producing area of the country. Silk fabric, also known as Paat in East India, Pattu in South India and Resham in North India, is a natural fiber produced from the cocoons of mulberry silkworm via a process called Sericulture.

The yarns produced from the process of sericulture are used to weave a variety of textiles. Traders introduced Chinese silk cloth to India, mainly from Samarkand and Bukhara and it gained enormous admiration among the royalty and the nobility.

Jamawar as well as brocade weaving centers in India developed in holy cities and trade centers because of the demand for expensive fabrics by the royal families and temples.

                                               White-Swan and Fuschia Handloom Pure Silk Kanjivaram Sari from Tamil Nadu with Brocaded Border

How did Kanjivaram become an indispensable part of the Indian attire?

In Indian families and neighbourhood, we all know some people whom we have seen owning a Kanjivaram that has been passed down from generations. A Kanjivaram saree is a significant part of the household heritage, particularly in southern India.

It is due to their rich cultural heritage, superior quality, and intricate designs. Kanjivaram sarees have a long and rich history that is deeply intertwined with Indian culture and tradition.

The sarees are often made as part of a bride's trousseau and are considered a symbol of wealth, status, and tradition. As such, they are worn on special occasions like weddings, festivals, and religious ceremonies.

The art of weaving Kanjivaram sarees is a highly skilled craft that has been passed down from generation to generation. The weaving technique involves the use of a pit loom, which is operated by two weavers working in tandem.

The sarees are made using pure mulberry silk and zari and are known for their durability, sheen, and intricate designs. Kanjivaram sarees come in a wide variety of designs, colors, and patterns, which makes them suitable for different occasions and tastes.

Some sarees feature traditional motifs and designs, while others incorporate more modern or contemporary elements. This variety ensures that there is a Kanjivaram saree for everyone.

Additionally, over the years, Kanjivaram sarees have been worn by numerous celebrities and public figures in India, which has helped to popularize them among the general public.

Celebrities often wear Kanjivaram sarees at red carpet events, movie premieres, and other high-profile occasions, which has helped to elevate their status as a symbol of glamour and style.

Also known as Kanchipuram sarees are a type of traditional sarees that originates from Kanchipuram, a city in Tamil Nadu, India.

These sarees are known for their exquisite silk material and intricate designs, and are typically worn at weddings, festivals, and other special occasions.

                                                         Handloom Pure Silk Kanjivaram Sari from Tamil Nadu with Wide Brocaded Border

Historical Overview of the Story of Kanjivaram Sarees

🌀 Origin : Kanjivaram sarees originated in the town of Kanchipuram in Tamil Nadu, India. According to legend, the art of weaving silk sarees was brought to Kanchipuram by the sage Markanda, who was believed to have woven clothing for the gods.

🌀 Weaving Technique : The weaving technique used to make Kanjivaram sarees is believed to have been developed during the Chola dynasty, which ruled southern India from the 9th to the 13th century.

The technique involves the use of a pit loom, which is operated by two weavers working in tandem. The sarees are made using pure mulberry silk and zari (a type of metallic thread) and are known for their durability and sheen.

🌀 Patronage : The art of weaving Kanjivaram sarees was traditionally passed down from generation to generation within weaving communities in Kanchipuram. The sarees were often made as part of a bride's trousseau and were considered a symbol of wealth and social status.

🌀 Development of Designs : Over time, the designs and patterns used in Kanjivaram sarees evolved to reflect the changing tastes and trends of the times.

During the Mughal era, for example, the sarees were influenced by Persian designs, while during the British colonial era, the sarees incorporated floral motifs and European-style designs.

                                                  Kanji-Cotton Sari from Chennai with Zari-Woven Animals on Border and Pin-Stripes

Kanjivaram Saree Varieties: A Guide to the Many Styles and Patterns

 There are many different types of Kanjivaram sarees, each with their own unique characteristics. Here are some of the most common types:

🌀 Plain Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are made from plain silk fabric, with little to no embellishment. They are typically dyed in vibrant colors and can be paired with a variety of blouses to create a classic and elegant look.

🌀 Temple Border Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees feature intricate designs along the borders, often depicting scenes from Hindu mythology. The body of the saree is usually plain or lightly embellished, allowing the border to take center stage.

🌀 Checks Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are characterized by a checkerboard pattern, with alternating colors and designs. The checks can be small or large, and are often complemented by a contrasting border and pallu.

🌀 Brocade Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees feature intricate brocade work, with metallic threads woven into the silk fabric to create a shimmering effect. The designs can range from geometric patterns to floral motifs, and are often complemented by a rich, contrasting border and pallu.

🌀 Korvai Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are made using a traditional weaving technique that involves joining two or more silk sarees together to create a seamless design. The designs can be simple or complex, and are often characterized by intricate borders and pallus.

🌀 Ganga-Jamuna Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are named after the Ganges and Yamuna rivers, which are believed to converge in the city of Allahabad in India. They feature a two-tone design, with one color on the body and another on the border and pallu. The colors are often contrasting and complementary, creating a striking visual effect.

🌀 Bridal Kanjivaram Sarees : These sarees are typically heavily embellished, with intricate designs and patterns woven into the silk fabric. They are often worn by brides at weddings and other special occasions, and are designed to be the centrepiece of the bride's outfit.

                                                  Jet-Black Handloom Pure Silk Kanjivaram Sari from Tamil Nadu with Multicolor Wide Checkered Border

Kanjivaram Sarees vs. Other Silk Sarees : How Are They Different?

It is important to note how the Kanjivaram Silk Sarees are distinct from other kind of Silk Sarees. While there are many other types of silk sarees available in India, Kanjivaram sarees are known for their unique characteristics that set them apart from the rest.

Here are some of the main differences between Kanjivaram sarees and other silk sarees:

🌀 Silk Quality : Kanjivaram sarees are made from high-quality silk, which is considered to be one of the finest in India. The silk used in Kanjivaram sarees is thicker and more durable than other types of silk sarees, which makes them ideal for wearing on special occasions.

🌀 Weaving Technique : The weaving technique used to make Kanjivaram sarees is unique and labor-intensive. The sarees are woven on a handloom, which involves the use of several threads at the same time to create intricate designs and patterns. This technique results in a dense, sturdy fabric that is able to hold its shape well.

🌀 Design and Patterns : Kanjivaram sarees are known for their intricate and elaborate designs, which often feature traditional motifs and patterns. The designs on Kanjivaram sarees are woven into the fabric, rather than printed or embroidered, which gives them a unique texture and appearance.

🌀 Border and Pallu : The border and pallu of a Kanjivaram saree are typically the most elaborate and ornate parts of the saree. The border may feature intricate designs or motifs, while the pallu may have a contrasting color and feature a large, intricate design.

🌀 Price : Due to the high-quality silk and intricate weaving techniques used to make Kanjivaram sarees, they are generally more expensive than other types of silk sarees.


                                               Blue-Ribbon Kanjivaram Sari from Bangalore with Zari-Woven Pallu and Checks

In conclusion

The Kanjivaram saree is revered for its gorgeous design, plush silk fabric, and delicate craftsmanship. It is certainly a masterpiece of Indian textile art. Women in India and other countries wear this classic saree with pride and elegance on important occasions since it has endured the test of time.

The Kanjivaram saree is a symbol of India's rich cultural heritage and the country's long history of creating some of the most exquisite and intricate textiles in the world.

Its popularity is evidence of its enduring beauty and allure, and it will undoubtedly continue to be a prized component of Indian fashion for many years to come.

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