While Banarasis have traditionally been made on endemic naksha drawlooms, it is now jacquard equipment that produces the characteristic weave. The exquisite yellow of the foundation is superimposed with booties of red thread and pale gold brocade. More of that brocade could be found on the border and at the edge of the endpiece, a superbly intricate weave done in a gracious tone that complements the base colour of the saree. Wear this on the choicest of ritual gatherings to turn the maximum number of heads.
When it comes to choosing from a variety of elegant sarees to be
worn on any special occasion or big event, a Banarasi saree is
always the top pick for all women. As the name suggests, a
Banarasi saree originates from the ancient city of Varanasi
(formerly known as Banaras) in Uttar Pradesh, India. These sarees
are made of finely woven high-quality silk and bear opulent
embroidery with metallic threads. The main characteristic feature
of a Banarasi saree is gold and silver brocade or zari work upon
the silk fabric. The end of the saree called Pallu is heavily
decorated with the work of embroidered designs and sometimes with
The making process of a Banarasi silk saree is elaborate and a lot
of manual labor and dedication goes into it.
Before working on the original Banarasi saree, a template is
prepared by making a detailed design on graph paper. This
template contains the designs of the base, pallu, and border.
When these designs are approved and agreed upon, the process
moves further into the next step.
The Patta is a stencil made of cardboard on which the designs on
graphic paper are put into the handloom machine and holes are
punched into to create its exact pattern/copy. The stencil is
then installed into the machine from where the weaving process
High-quality silk yarns from South India are selected for the
making of the finest Banarasi sarees. These raw yarns are then
processed and dyed as per the color shade of choice. The excess
water is drained out and the colored yarns are allowed to dry in
Zari is one of the distinctive features of Banarasis that makes
the saree look graceful and beautiful. The selection of Zari is
done as per the base color of the saree. Usually, in most sarees,
copper zari is used but sometimes real silver and gold zari may
also be used.
After the silk yarns are processed and ready, the process of
weaving begins on a handloom attached to the machine. This is
the most complicated step in the whole process. The longitudinal
threads (the Tana) and the latitudinal threads (the Bana) are
set on the loom. With the back-and-forth movement of the shuttle
of the machine, the desired design is obtained and the weaving
of the Banarasi saree is completed. The weavers of Banaras are
highly skilled and thus they are able to exhibit excellent
skills and the fabric comes out with the right details.
When the weaving of the saree is completed, it is made ready to
be sent out for sale. Extra or loose threads are cut to make the
The colors of Banarasi sarees are always vibrant and eye-catching.
Every step of the process of making these sarees is carried out in
such a way that the richness and magnificence of the fabric and
its design do not go for a toss and the saree turns out just the
way it is required. The splendor of Banarasis is undoubtedly
unmatched and this is the reason why they are in high demand even
in the international fashion world.
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