Saree, an ethnic wear for women in India, Sri Lanka, Pakistan, and Nepal wrapped around the waist with pleats in the center, and the rest of the cloth is draped on a shoulder often paired with a bodice traditionally known as ‘choli’.
A saree is not just a garment for Indian women it's more likely a symbol of tradition and culture. It is worn on multiple occasions like festivals, weddings, and other religious events.
There are 180 ways to wear a saree that have been documented in a book by Rta Kapur Chisti, a saree historian and textile scholar from 14 different states across India.
It not only stands as a symbol of tradition but as a symbol of values. Beyond aesthetics, the saree helps women embrace culture while showcasing their individuality and style.
It is believed that wearing a saree brings dignity and grace to elevate a woman’s appearance. Today we are going to uncover the legacy of a Saree and indulge in its origin, significance, and interpretations.
The resemblance of the saree kind of drape can be seen in the Indus Valley Civilisation that flourished during 1800 BCE in the Northwest region of the Indian subcontinent.
Records from that time show Indus priests and sages draped in saree-like attire. Dyes that were used in this period for the sarees are still pretty much the same particularly, Indigo, lac, and turmeric.
The earliest mentions of the saree can be seen in the Rig Veda depicting drape attire on the sculptures in ancient times as well as in Sanskrit literature in which it was referred to as Kosha.
In epics, like Mahabharata saree played a vital role and was mentioned in a glorifying way. Draupadi’s endless saree saved her from being disrobed in the hall of gambling and symbolized her faith and purity.
Saree was worn by women of all castes, the women of royal families used to wear sarees made out of gold and silver threads, and on the other hand, women of the lower class wore sarees made with affordable materials like cotton.
There was not much change in fashion until the 12th century. When the Mughals came to India and conquered the north, they insisted women to cover their bodies which led to the existence of blouses and petticoats (long skirts).
Years later after the arrival of foreigners from different regions of the world, women of the royal families started asking the artisans to add expensive gold threads and precious stones to glorify their sarees to help them stand out in front of them.
A saree drape of multiple classifications is present across different regions of India, depicting various cultural beliefs, preferences, and adaptations of a simple saree.
The most common one is the Nivi style originated in Andra Pradesh with long pleats tucked in the center and wrapped around the hips. It requires a saree length of at least six yards.
Traditional Bengali and Odia sarees known as ‘atpouro’ do not incorporate pleats, women of Gujrat and Rajasthan pleat a saree like normal then drape the loose end known as ‘pallu’ on the right shoulder and tuck it in.
Maharashtrian and Konkani silk sarees are nine yards long and are wrapped in a dhoti style signifying the historical times when women used to be warriors and this dhoti style helped them to move freely.
Tamil saree draping known as ‘Madisar’ is a nine-yard saree pleated at the back, drawn between the legs and the loose end is wrapped around the waist. This saree drape is worn on special occasions like weddings, festivals,poja, etc. Fabric type is preferably silk but cotton is also quite popular.
Kerala’s women wear a two-piece saree ‘Mundu Neriyathum’. Mundu is the skirt and Neriyathum is the upper drape along with a blouse. Tribal women from various ethnic groups wear a long sarong that is crossed around their shoulders and then knotted around their neck.
Sarees are a wide tapestry incorporated with local styles and fabrics of saree like Kanjeevaram saree from South India, Paithani saree from Maharashtra, Chanderi saree from Madhya Pradesh, etc.
Serve different purposes and are suitable for specified events and climates. These regional variations contribute to the vast heritage of the saree tradition.
Due to the change in trends and tastes Modern Indian women are looking for an evolution of sarees to pair them with contemporary aesthetics. Saree beautifully adapted itself to modern times and the preferences of people.
New fabrics, prints along with contemporary draping techniques are gaining popularity around the world. Designers are mixing traditional designs with contemporary styles to make saree a global fashion statement.
Saree has traveled through centuries embodying different cultures, glorifying the beauty of women and femininity of all ages. Their drape, fabric, and style has evolved over the years but the legacy of the attire as a symbol of Indian tradition, culture, and timeless elegance remained the same.
Throughout history, this garment has adapted itself to the styles and cultures of diverse states and their requirements. In the 19th and 20th centuries, this garment experienced a new fashion wave.
Colonialism brought major changes in the humble approach to it. Artisans were asked to introduce newer techniques and changes in the attire were encouraged by the Britishers.
During Postcolonialism, artists started to explore their innovation and began experimenting with colors, patterns, and prints. Contemporary artists and designers from around the world started to work with these local artists to blend modern techniques with traditional Indian art.
Digital platforms are allowing these local artists to showcase their work to global audiences which not only helps with their growth as artists but it also encourages people to experience the craftsmanship and ancient cultural heritage of India through this token of elegance and femininity. Explore the vast variations of the Saree and support the art and handloom weaving that goes into the making of this classic attire.
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