Preface
Essence of the world is centred on ‘Beauty’. Human being is a significant element. Hence, from the times immemorial, human has remained worshipper of ‘beauty’. He likes ‘beauty’ the most. The clothes we wear is instrumental in enhancing the ‘beauty’ in us. Since the begining of civilization till modern times, the situation has changed so much so that we change clothes upto 4 to 5 times daily according to the change in weathers and time. This book reveals the history of dress making, tailoring and its equipments, methods of measurements, sewing machine, its development and advancement, elevation of readymade garments to new heights, methods and ways of alteration in garments, etc.
This book will prove to be an ideal book for I.T.I. as well as vocational students at school-level, since all topics have been covered from their respective syllabii in this book. According to the syllabus requirement, chapter on ‘Drawing’ has also been an important addition.
Gratitudes are due to the publisher M/s Asian Publishers and their associates for bringing out this english version of the book in such a nice getup. It is also sincerely hoped that students and teachers shall find the description given in the book to be satisfactory. Suggestions for further improvements are welcome.
Introduction
Student life is such a priceless period when any student who desires to acquire whatsoever knowledge, may assimilate it straight way, the only thing that remains to be seen is the presence of persuasive bent in him. That is to say whether he is wanting to leap in the field of studies or wanting to get training in any creative field ? Some students have little keenness in the field of studies so they turn their bent towards creative activities. It may be attributable to various reasons. It could be economic poverty or change in attitudes. It makes little sense for whatsoever reasons’ such changes have occurred. Here the point under consideration is that if anyone wishes to show his keenness to learn cutting-tailoring, then before learning this work entire information of this trade is not only important but compulsory also.
As air, water and shelter have their important place for the safety and protection of human life, similarly garments have their important role in protecting the body of man from repurcussions of seasons. Man likes such garments to wear in the present time which may bring elegance in his personality. For making such types of garments it is important to have deep knowledge about the methods of tailoring art. As it has been said “God makes a man but Tailor makes him a gentleman”. This quotation, have been read, it may become amply clear to all that this art may be acquired as much as may he possible so that after acquiring the knowledge of Anatomy, one can give a decent fitting to garment.
Meaning of Cutting-Tailoring-In order to make a garment for any person, after taking his proper and necessary measurements, drafting, cutting a cloth with proper inlays etc. for seams is called cutting art. Thereafter basting various cut- parts of the cloth in the right sequence and then stitching the same is called tailoring art. Various cut-parts are joined by different types stitches, such as, back stitches, fine stitches, flat seams etc. Therefore a skilled tailor must know the art of joining these cut-component in the right sequence by using proper stitches.
Knowledge about Cutting-Tailoring-If a subject is to be understood from the begining, then knowledge of its history shall he must. If we go back to the history of garments, we shall see that man did not live a life in yore that he is living today. He initially was naked. Then in a course of time he noticed birds making their nests and an imagination of constructing a home for himself evoked in him. Then he came to know about a cotton plant, took cotton-balls from it and span yarn which led to imagination of cloth in him. Gradually he learnt about weaving cloth, rolling it on the body and protecting body by it. And in this way starting from a toga after a series of developments in this field modern style fine and comfortable fitting is there. A strolling, lot of yore has come out to be a modern man, how it all came to be ? We shall discuss this subject in the forthcoming chapters.
Going through the British history of India we shall see that a decently cut pant in a scientific manner was first noticed in 1829, and coat entered into fashion in 1832. The greater thinker who gave a modern style to these garments is known to all by the name of “Mr. Vampon”. Since Mr Vampon till modern lime a number of changes have occurred in Cutting-tailoring art. This takes years of development. This time man has reached the pinnacle of development. In the world of fashion there are taking place so many new styles every day. But the services of Mr. Vampon shall always he remembered by the world.
Contents
1.
Introduction to the Trade
1
2.
Aims for, Learning Tailoring
2-3
3.
Tailoring is an Art and Industry
4-6
4.
History of Dress Making
7-8
5.
Different Effects upon Dress and Style
9-10
6.
Different Types of Stitches
11-33
7.
Tools and Equipments
34-44
8.
Sewing Machine
45-59
9.
Fibres
60-68
10.
Trimmings for Tailoring
69-71
11.
Anatomy
72-75
12.
Human Body
76-82
13.
Measurements
83-96
14.
Technical Terms in Tailoring
97-98
15.
Short-Hand in Tailoring
99-100
16.
Pattern
101-114
17.
Pressing
115-117
18.
Shrinkage
118-119
19.
Fundamental Methods of Stitching
120-121
20.
Estimation of Garments in Different Sizes
122-126
21.
Readymade Garments
127-136
22.
Stains and Its Removing
137-140
23.
Alteration
141-155
24.
Different Types of Sleeves
156-167
25.
Different Types of Pockets
168-170
26.
Different Types of Necks and Collars
171-180
Drawing
181-186
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