Travels in India During the years 1780-83

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THE intimate connexion which has fo long fubfifted between this country and the con- tinent of India, naturally renders every Englifh- man deeply interefted in all that relates to a quarter of the globe which has been the theatre of fcenes highly important to his country; and which, per- haps, at the moment when he perufes the defcrip- tion of it, may be the refidence or the grave of fome of his dearefl friends.

IT is only matter of furprize, that, of a country fo nearly allied to us, fo little fhould be known. The public is, indeed, greatly indebted to the learned labours of gentlemen, who have refided there, for the information which they have afford- ed concerning the Laws and the Religion of the Hindoo tribes; as well as for correct and well di- gefied details of the tranlactions of the Mogul go- vernment. But of the face of the country, of its arts, and natural prod uctions, little has yet been faid. Gentlemen who have refided long in India lofe the idea of the hrft impreffion which that very curious country makes upon an entire ftanger: the novelty is foon effaced, and the mind, by a common and natural operation, directs its views to more abftract fpeculation ; reafoning affumes the place of obfervation, and the traveller is loft in the philofopher.

To fupply, in fome :flight degree, this hiatus in the topographical department of literature, is the immediate object of the following pages. It will, I flatter myfelf, not be difagreeable to my readers to be informed, that they conlift of a few plain reprefentations of what I obferved on the fpot, ex- preifed in the fimple garb of truth, without the fmalleft embellifhment from fiction, or from fancy. They were chiefly intended for my own amufe- ment, and to enable me to explain to my friends a number of drawings which I had made during my rcfidence in India, fome or which accompany the prefent publication. The apology is trite; but in this cafe its truth, and the refpectability of the name to which I refer, muft plead my excufe-it was owing entirely to the influence and perfuafion of my moft juftly efieemed friend, Henry James Pye, Efq. Poet Laureat, that thefe obfervations have been fubmitted to a tribunal, which I have ever regarded with awful refpect-THE PUBLIC.

Chapter I

General Appearance of the Coast-of the Town of Madras-Boats of the Country-First Reception of a Stranger-His Sensations on entering the Country-War with Hyder Ally-General Distress
-Descriptive sketch of the Country, Buildings, etc.-Indian Temple.

CHAPTER II

Voyage to Bengal-Description of the Fort and Town of Calcutta-Route from Calcutta to the Plains of Plassey-Description of that memorable spot-The Author's Progress through the Country-Ruins of a Zananab-Cataract of Mootejerna-Happiness of India-Description of Bauglepoor-Town and Fort of Mongheir
-Remarks on the Mode of traveling in India-Voyage back to Calcutta on the Ganges-Temples-Females bathing-Singular Appearance by Night.

CHAPTER III

Embark in the Train of the Governor General-Boats of the Country described-Remarks on those of the South Sea-Views on the River-Dutch, French, and Danish Settlements-Sir Eyre Coote's -Cossimbuzar-Sir John D'Oyley's-Patna-Reception of the Governor there-Mosque of Moonhier-Arrive at Buxar
-Gazipoor-Curious Ruins-Benares-Arrest of the Rajah-Insurrection at Benares-Principle Events of the War-Flight from Benares, and Return thither.

CHAPTER IV

Description of Benares-Elegant Fascade-Hindoo Temples-Dissertation on the Hindoo, Moorish, and Gothic Architecture.

CHAPTER V

Ceremony of widows devoting themselves on the Funeral Pile of their Husband-Minute Description of the performance of that horrid Sacrifice-Journey to Bidjegur-Description of the Fort, etc.-Arrival at Bauglepoor-
The author accompanies Mr. Cleveland through a Part of his District-Excellent Conduct of Mr. Cleveland in civilizing the Mountaineers-Curious Sacrifice.

CHAPTER VI

The Author returns to Calcutta-Seized with a dangerous Illness-Recovery-Proceeds on a new tour-Route from Calcutta to Allahabad; Description of the Fort and Town-Cawnpoor
-Lucknow, Description of that City-Palace of the Nabob-Journey of Fyzabad and Oud
-Description of the City of Fyzabad-Palace of Sujab ul Dowlah-City of Oud, etc.

CHAPTER VII

Journey to Etaya-Description of that Place-Jeswontnagur-O' Kraine-Shekoabad-Fyrozabad -Etamadpoor-Shah Dara-Agra-Magnificent Ruins-Arrival at the Camp of the Nabob Mirza Shuffy Khawn-Mausoleum of Acbar-Taje Mahael-Futtypoor Sicri-Fortress of Gwalior-Return to Lucknow.

CHAPTER VII

Departure from Lucknow-Voyage down the River Goomty-Danger from Banditti-Jionpoor -Mausoleum-Sasseram-Mausoleum of Shere Shah-Death of Mr. Cleveland-Arrival at Calcutta -Reflections on the State of the Arts in India-A new Project-Advice to Artists traveling in India.