As the saying goes, all that glitters is not gold. However, in India, well, it often is. A magnificent part of Indian culture is traditional Indian jewelry. Imagine intricately formed, ornate gold adorned with the most stunningly brilliant gemstones, pearls, and diamonds.
There are actually three major classifications of traditional Indian jewelry. There’s bridal jewelry, spiritual jewelry, and, last but not least, temple jewelry. The origins of temple jewelry can be traced back to South India in particular.
From the ninth century until the sixteenth century, the region of South India was ruled by the Chola, Pandya, and Krishnadeva Raya dynasties, who were all fine jewelry connoisseurs. Ruling for such a long period of time, temple jewelry became an intrinsic part of both religious and cultural tradition. As you can infer from its name, temple jewelry was often used to worship and adorn the sacred figures of Indian gods, goddesses, and deities.
These figures were embellished with large and stunning jewelry, including necklaces, chokers, earrings, bracelets, nose rings, anklets, as well as other body jewelry, as a symbol of veneration and devotion. Of all the many holy temples, the Madurai temple is especially known for having some of the most valuable displays of temple jewelry.
The temple jewelry grew from the heirloom of the royal families and went into the sacred space of South Indian temples, where it was enriched with the beautiful and divine motifs the artists and wearers often saw in the architecture of the sanctums. This blend of the perfected techniques of the royal jewelry makers and the devotional elements of temples gave rise to a unique collection of ornaments that represented the beauty and sanctity of Indian culture.
While adorning the charming bodies of temple dancers and women of society, temple jewelry also became a protective and auspicious wearable item, with images of gods and goddesses, sacred motifs, and ancient gemstones acting as amulets against negativity, enhancing and protecting the well-being and aura of the lady. Here are a few distinct varieties and designs in temple jewelry that were created by medieval master jewelers, which continue to be popular among women, who cherish them as pieces of heritage- personal and cultural.
As the name suggests, Kemp jewelry is the gold and stone ornament used most popularly by the classical Bharatanatyam dancers, who adorn themselves from head to toe with these rich pieces. The word “Kemp” highlights the lovely red stones that are used all over these jewelry pieces.
Most Kemp jewellery are purchased in sets and include the stunning “Manga Malai” or Mango necklace, with tiny paisley designs, Attigai or a choker-like neckpiece, Matha-Patti (the stringed hair ornament), Surya and Chandra Pirari (hair pins shaped like Sun and Moon), natha (nose ring), Bullaku (septum ring), and Rakodi (worn on the back of the hair bun).
The goddess of wealth, luxury, and beauty, Lakshmi is not only ornamented all over with luxurious jewelry, she is also one of the most popular deities depicted in traditional Indian jewelry. The idea is that the wearer and the jewels are blessed by her presence, and wearing an article with her icon or symbol will bring her benevolence in the life of the person.
An example of the alluring presence of Devi Lakshmi in temple jewelry is this exquisite sterling silver pendant, inspired by traditional jewelry, depicting the goddess with peacocks, which are a symbol of royalty and beauty, with a row of ghungroos on the lower section, creating an elaborate and auspicious statement piece.
A variety of the same patterns is offered by this designer handcrafted pendant, showing goddess Lakshmi inside a stylized peacock symbol, associating her more closely to the idea of luxury and regalia. Tiny red and green stone pieces further embellish the jewelry, making this an absolute gem to style with your royal Indian silk sarees.
Pendants made in the style of traditional South Indian temple jewelry are alluring due to their intricate make, golden luster, and colorful stone embellishment. This stylized peacock pair pendant showcases two lovely Mayura- an ancient symbol of royalty, divinity, and romance, as well as a bird associated with several Hindu gods and goddesses such as Krishna, Saraswati, and Murugan. Tiny kemp pieces added to the pendant give a contrast to the metallic golden sheen while fusing the ornament with the auspiciousness and timeless beauty of red.
Elaborate and heavenly, the temple jewelry is known for its use of sacred motifs and images of gods and goddesses. In this Padmanabha Swamy necklace, the wearer is blessed with the deity in his powerful form, as seen in the shrine of Vishnu. While a miniature sanctum of Padmanabha Swamy rests on your heart, you are also protected and blessed by goddess Lakshmi, who appears on the golden beaded chain of the necklace- a link forming between Vishnu and Lakshmi, making this necklace a symbol of the artist’s cultural understanding and devotion.
The details, vivid colors, and golden glow of temple jewelry- things that make them a classic symbol of India’s rich culture are a dream to have in your jewelry box. The ornate craftsmanship that goes on in making a temple jewellery ideally blends rich materials and iconography, while creating ornaments that are more than just accessories. For the modern wearer, the makers of temple jewelry are experimenting with materials and designs, to offer affordable and refined ornaments, that take you back in time while never straining your budget.
This traditional necklace and earring set made with brass and decorated with Kemp stones is a charming example of a modern meeting classic. The metal used is durable as well as affordable, polished, and detailed to give it a gold-like look, which is further elevated by the tiny Kemp pieces that remind one immediately of the alluring heritage jewelry of South India. A chic element is brought by the leaf-shaped design which is the perfect balance between light and intricate.
Classics are timeless for a reason! This designer lotus pattern necklace and earring set recreates one of the most popular styles of temple jewelry, with the auspicious lotus motif adding a divine and ancient touch to the piece. The rich red stones on the lotus petals and green on the leaves, embellishment of the peacock pendant in the center, and tiny pearls dangling from the pieces are traditional features, that are unmatched even in modern times, when less is more. For the lovers of true Indian culture, pieces like this are a catch, for affordable and memorable festive fashion.
While temple jewelry is widely recognized for its extravagance and dramatic appearance, its most basic style can actually be made of just simple gold or silver, forgoing any stones or diamonds. The most fundamental and defining feature of all temple jewelry is its skillfully handcrafted design. As one can expect, temple jewelry designs often take inspiration from divine figures such as the goddess Lakshmi.
In addition to the deities, some of the most popular motifs are lotus flowers, leaves, sacred animals, including peacocks, swans and elephants, as well as bells, and coins, just to name a few. Temple jewelry is known for its intricacy and depending on how elaborate a piece is, and what other stones are included in its design, a piece of jewelry can take anywhere from days to months in order to create.
The tradition and aesthetic of temple jewelry has not only transcended time but it has outlasted various Indian rulers and colonizers. In fact, not only has it endured but it has flourished. No longer just a part of South Indian culture, temple jewelry is favored all over India and even beyond its shores.
Many current fashions and contemporary jewelry in various parts of the world take inspiration from temple jewelry. Today, temple jewelry isn’t just exclusively for the gods, goddesses, and deities. What was once reserved for deities and royals was consequently adopted by temple dancers and devotees.
As the form of jewelry trickled down to the wider community, replicas were created and jewelers began taking inspiration from temple architecture, the forms and characteristic of the deities themselves, as well as their rich history. It remains an essential and spectacular part of Indian cultural heritage and to this day, is among the most artful and sublime forms of jewelry.
In fact, these days, temple jewelry are often heirloom pieces and are a crucial part of an Indian bride’s trousseau and jewelry collection. Not only that, temple jewelry has become directly associated to Indian history and culture, even as it continues to gain widespread popularity and finds its way into the jewelry boxes of women across the world.
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